The mechanics of the precious

The Time, Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon, November 5,

A watch is not set in the same way as a jewel. Faced with more restrictive requirements, stone masters find solutions and reinvent this high-precision art.

“For a watch to retain a certain finesse, you are called upon to set precious stones on metal surfaces that are generally much more compact than on a piece of jewellery,” explains Pierre Salanitro, director of the Geneva setting workshop that bears his name. The technical plans are drastic. Each detail is specified there with very precise dimensions on the width of the part, its depth, the material that must remain on the sides after crimping. The diameter and the exact number of stones to be used are also specified. Everything is thought out and fixed in advance, the plan must be followed to the letter.” And the creativity of the craftsman in all this? "It is expressed on unique pieces or limited series of high jewelry."

Gem-setting is an ancestral art, but over time watchmakers continue to explore new artistic repertoires. New techniques are appearing, other older ones are reinterpreted in order to accentuate the play of light and bring the brilliance of precious stones to its peak.

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